Backpacking in the Dark.

I recently went on my first backpacking trip with some friends. I didn’t want my first time backpacking to be with only first-timers like me, but that’s how it ended up. So we did some research, asked some friends, bought some gear, and borrowed the rest. We planned out easy meals, shoved things into our bags, and then managed to cram it all into the back of a car and head to the mountains.

Oh, and we brought spike ball because are you really camping without it?! 😉

(The start of our journey up the mountain as the sun sets.)

We planned poorly because we started our trek into the campsite right as the sun was going down. This was a new trail I had never done and it became dark outside quickly. I had read up about the trail online multiple times and everyone said it was about a 1-1.5 hour hike in and then you arrive at a small, run down, old cabin…which you cannot camp inside of. (That was a key point that everyone made very evident on the trip reports.)

So the four of us were in the dark, looking for a small cabin, with way too much stuff. I’ve heard that everyone packs too much on their first trip though, so I think we were doing it right.

Well, we got tired really quickly. And it got darker and darker. Then we started to doubt our directions, believing we made a wrong turn, but unable to see where we were or where we were going. We came to a bridge that was made of trees just laying across the river. I crossed this bridge first to see if I could tell if it was the right way. There was no way to tell either way, so the rest of the group slowly crossed this bridge and we continued in the dark.

(The bridge was really scary actually. It was wobbly and unstable and looked way longer in the dark…especially with a heavy pack on your back.)

(The bridge! Not that crazy til you have a heavy pack on and it’s dark.)

Anyways, we made it to a good stopping place and two of us continued up the mountain to see if we could find the cabin or at least a good place to camp for the night. We managed to find several other tents and a good place to camp that was decently flat for our tent. We went back to get the other two and then headed back to our prime location… except we missed the spot and ended up further up the mountain.

But…… we found the cabin!! 🙂 This was a joyous moment as we realized we had made it and taken the right trail!

So we set down our packs, set up the tent, and then headed to bed. It was a cold night and we were on a slope so we slid down to the bottom of the tent all night.

But it was all worth it.

Our backpacking trek may have been less than ideal, but it was worth it because we were together, trying something new, as a group of friends. We were on an adventure!! And when you are on an adventure, everything that is less than ideal or things that seem to go wrong, simply make the adventure that much more exciting!

This was the end of our backpacking portion. Yes, it was a short backpacking experience, but it was one that gave us a good taste of what it would be like to backpack for a few days next time…with less stuff, less elevation change, and more daylight.

From our campsite, the plan was to hike some 14ers each day for the next few days and just enjoy being in the mountains. The camping area was right below the treeline, so we had some wonderful evenings of stargazing and incredible views of some of the tallest mountains in Colorado!

Check out future posts about our hiking adventures!

P.S. As I researched some of the info below, I came across a website that said: “Missouri Mountain Trail… is only recommended for very experienced adventurers.” So if you need any “very experienced adventurers” we are now your people! 😉

Trail: Missouri Gulch Trail near Buena Vista, Colorado

Elevation Gain: Approx. 1,350 feet

Time: Approx. 2 Hours

Distance: About 1.5 miles

(Trail on the way back, obviously, during the day and not in the middle of the night!)

How to Hike a 14er

I love hiking and going on outdoor adventures! One of my favorite adventures has been learning to hike 14ers. 14ers are mountains that are over 14,000 ft in elevation and Colorado has 54 of them (give or take depending on how you classify them, but that’s not a necessary conversation here). Anyways, I have hiked, as of 2019, 10 of these 14ers in Colorado and my goal is to hike them all!

I love bringing people with me when I hike. Yes, that is mostly because it is dangerous to hike alone, but it also allows others to experience something great too! Many times these friends are ones who have never hiked a 14er before, and they have all made it to the top! So in this post, I wanted to give some tips for hiking and preparing to hike a 14er for all the friends that will go with me on an adventure one day!

  1. Find someone to hike with. Obviously you want to find a buddy to go hiking with you, but it is even more helpful if you can find someone who has hiked, climbed, or backpacked before …especially if you have never done those things! This friend will be a major help along the way, both with tips and encouragement.
  2. Get in shape! You don’t have to be in the best shape of your life to hike a 14er. Mountains have a variety of types (or “classes”) of routes. These routes all vary in difficulty meaning that there are easily mountains that are much shorter than a 14,000 ft but are classified at a much higher rank in difficulty. Just because you are hiking a 14er doesn’t mean you are hiking the biggest, baddest mountain out there….just the one with the best view (in my opinion). So prepare for this adventure by getting in shape. Go on a walk every day for a few miles at a steady, quick pace. Going for a run a few times a week is even better! Do some lunges, run some stairs, swim a few laps, hit the bleechers. Anything that is going to get you working at a level with less oxygen than normal is the key. Be consistent with your training and remember the joy you will have at the top of the mountain! That is your motivation!
  3. Drink water! At least one week before you hike, you need to start drinking more water than normal. This is essential for anyone just going to visit a high altitude location, and so it is life saving for those going to an even higher altitude (aka: 14,000 ft above sea level)! Drink lots of water, and then drink more. My coach in college used to tell us, “Drink water like it’s your job.” So do that.
  4. Know the mountain. Before you head out to the trailhead, you need to do some research! Every mountain has multiple routes. Study the route you want to take and know where the trailhead begins. Check out 14ers.com or alltrails.com to see recent reports from people who have hiked. Learn from their mistakes and take their advice!
  5. Gather your gear. Each 14er is different and the length of the trails and difficulties are also different. So for longer hikes you will need to bring more food and a wider variety of clothing. But here’s a general list that should get you through most one-day 14er hikes: camelback backpack (if you have this, it’s a life saver!), 1-2 extra water bottles in your pack, easy access snacks (granola bars, fruit snacks, apple, trail mix, PB sandwich, etc. …things you can eat while you walk), sunscreen, first aid kit, toilet paper, ziplock bags (for trash…pack it and keep it with you please!), LAYERS (tshirt, long sleeve shirt, jacket, rain jacket, etc.), hat/sunglasses, hiking boots (or good running shoes will work if it’s an easier 14er), hiking poles (optional), headlamp, good socks, gloves (if you are like me and have Elsa hands that are always cold) and of course, a sign that has the name of the 14er along with the height so you can take a picture at the top!
  6. HIKE! Now you are ready to hike! Before you head out for the day, make sure to check the weather! Storms tend to roll in around 2pm in Colorado most afternoons. Therefore, you need to summit before the storm arrives. My personal rule is to summit every mountain before noon. So if you are doing a double or triple, you must leave early. The most common call for a rescue from the top of 14ers is due to lightening, so please, please, stay safe and forget about the summit if a storm rolls in unexpectedly early. Now, when I say start early, I mean early. I typically want to be at the trailhead by at least 5am, but that changes depending on the difficulty of the mountain, the number of peaks, and the weather. So just be smart and start as early as you can. (Which is why you need a headlamp because it will be cold and dark.)

So friends, those are my tips for having a great 14er hike! It really is worth it! Our God created these tall mountains, and I pray that as you stand on the top, you would realize how vast and unsearchable our God is! He is bigger than the mountains and yet He knows every detail of our lives! We will never understand all that He is and yet we can know Him personally. And I praise God, that He has given us mountains to enjoy and incredible views to see His creation! May the Lord bless you and keep you on your journey!

Come, let us sing for joy to the Lord;
    let us shout aloud to the Rock of our salvation.
Let us come before him with thanksgiving
    and extol him with music and song.
For the Lord is the great God,
    the great King above all gods.
In his hand are the depths of the earth,
    and the mountain peaks belong to him.
The sea is his, for he made it,
    and his hands formed the dry land.

Psalm 95:1-5

Campfires.

There is something incredible about sitting around a fire in the middle of nature with good friends. And if you find yourself at a campfire in the middle of nature with a group of strangers, I have no doubt that they too will soon be your good friends.

Campfires bring out this desire to sit, watch, listen, and rest. You cannot be hurried around a campfire. (That is, unless you are building a campfire on the brink of a storm and you only have so long to cook the food you brought before the inevitable downpour. And I’m not writing that out of experience or anything.) When you sit around a campfire, you enjoy talking, asking questions, hearing stories, and sharing stories. I’m convinced that there is something within us that was made for this.

I often think about the Israelites and how hard of a life they had. They went through a lot of ups and downs, but especially a lot of downs. They spent 40 years in a desert. They had a system of sacrifices they had to perform in order to be right with God. This group of people constantly had to build fires. These fires would have been used for food preparation, warmth, and sacrifices. (Side note: Do you think they got tired of their clothes smelling like campfires too?)

We don’t know everything about the Israelites and their way of life. So, I often wonder if they sat around campfires at night, sharing stories from the day and remembering the faithfulness of God. I wonder what things they thought were funny and what stories they enjoyed telling the most. And I wonder what it was like to build a fire in a desert every single day for 40 years.

I also think they were probably all really good at getting fires started and keeping them going. We often “cheat” this by bringing fire starters, lighter fluid, torches, matches, etc. This is a skill I’m still trying to master. But back to the point.

Campfires may be one of my favorite things. I think a big part of this has to with them being in nature, which I love. It is a joy to sit around a fire and stare up into the tall trees around you, hear the leaves crunch under your feet, smell the bark and sap of the forest, and gaze up at the stars. But the other part is that campfires bring people together. They allow people to sit, rest, and chat. They provide a place where everyone has a chance to talk and share because everyone has the time to listen. You may find yourself around a fire with some people you don’t know very well, but somehow, by the flames of the fire and with the reality that there is no place to rush off to, it allows you to feel invited in and known. The flames themselves provide light in the darkest of nights, creating an invitation to sit and savor for just a moment or two. The flames dancing in front of you allow you to forget about the rest of the world for just a moment. And there is peace. Rest. Joy. Delight.

If you haven’t enjoyed a campfire in a while, I encourage you to make one soon and enjoy all that it provides. Invite some friends you know well or some friends you want to know better, and then just sit and relax together. Enjoy the sounds and smells of nature. Talk about the past and the future. Make a smore or two. Be reminded that the God who created everything around you is so big and so kind to give us small glimpses of heaven. And sometimes that comes through something as simple as a campfire.

Emerald Lake

Estes Park is a great place for adventure, but it also holds one of my favorite winter hikes, Bear Lake to Emerald Lake.

Estes is a cozy little mountain town full of quaint shops, people seeking adventure, and some of the best taffy you will ever try! It is also the entrance into Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). RMNP is wonderful and full of life! There are tons of trails and animals! Trail ridge road is also park of the park and is the highest paved highway in the USA, as it takes you over the continental divide. You should try it sometime, but only in the summer since it’s closed all winter due to snow.

Now, let me tell you about my favorite winter hike. Bear Lake is a gorgeous lake in RMNP. Many people travel to see this lake nestled into the mountains. There are trails around the lake but the best one is the Emerald Lake hike.

Emerald Lake is the fourth lake from Bear Lake. Beginning at Bear it’s a little under 4 miles round trip out to Emerald. You also get to see two other beautiful lakes on the way out!

The trail begins with a fairly steep uphill that will have you asking if you are out of shape or need to start working out more (or maybe start working out in general). It’s really not that bad, but you are now at over 9,000 feet elevation so everyone will feel that at least a little. The first lake you come to is Nymph Lake. It’s a great feeling to get to the first lake. Since everything is frozen, you can hike right over the lake! This is the lake you will see the most people at since it’s the closest and shortest distance. It’s a beautiful view, but if the weather is bearable I’d encourage you to continue on.

Once you cross the lake it’s another uphill trail, but by now you are likely getting used to the air and know a good pace for yourself and your group. This part of the trail is my favorite section in the winter! Soon you will be at one of the best lookouts on the trail, and it’s a must see! Stop and soak it in. Take a few pictures but honestly, just look and see. It’s a view that you will want to remember!

Continue on the trail, which has some thin and tricky areas, until you get to the third lake, Dream Lake. This is the longest lake and it’s a stunning view in the winter! You will likely not believe that the view could get better than this… but it does! So don’t give up!

Dream Lake is a fun lake to cross in the winter due to the size, but this is also the place I’ve turned around the most often. If the weather is really cold or the wind is strong, you will start to really feel it out on this lake since there’s no tree coverage and you’ve been hiking for a while now. But if you are able, and the weather is good… snap a pic, get across the lake, and head into the trees on the opposite side for the final lake!

The final trail is the hardest to follow in the winter since you are simply following the snow packed areas made by those before you and this is the least traveled trail. But you can do it! There are a few very steep ascents in this section but it’s not terribly long. You will go through some trees right before the trail opens up to the lake. Take a deep breath, step through the trees, and look up.

Emerald Lake. You’ve made it! And you are now at the base of Hallett Peak and Flattop Mountain, two 12,000+ foot mountains where you could see some adventurous people backcountry skiing down the valley of the Tyndall Glacier. It’s the most beautiful on a clear day with a fresh coat of snow, but sometimes you may not be that lucky. This lake will be very cold so you likely won’t stay long. But please, sit for a moment and just take it in.

Once you’ve taken in one of the most beautiful places on earth (and taken a few sips of water!!), you can begin your descent. Follow the same trail you took to come out and keep in mind that sometimes it’s easier (and more fun!) to slide on your snow pants down some of the hills.

That’s it. You made it to one of my favorite places and I hope you enjoyed the journey! It’s a place I go almost every year and it’s worth it every single time. It should take anywhere from 1.5-3 hours depending on the weather, your fitness, and your group size.

A note on snow shoes and then some final tips. In the winter you need either snow shoes or ice cleats. Both of these can be rented in town before you head into the park. If there’s fresh snow then snow shoes are the most fun, though they are more difficult to manage. I used ice cleats for the first time this year since the trails were packed and there wasn’t fresh snow… and I loved them! They were easy to use and super helpful! But again, fresh snow would need the snow shoe. (The people at rental stores are always helpful with this kind of thing too.) And I always rent poles as well to help make the hiking easier.

Final Tips:

  • Bring a portable charger for your phone.
  • Bring water and a snack.
  • Check the weather.
  • Get out early.
  • Hike with a group.
  • Wear layers and water proof clothing.
  • Plan ahead and communicate with your group.
  • Have fun and meet some new friends on the way!
Emerald Lake 12.27.19
Dream Lake 12.27.19